Sunday, January 3, 2010

awesome day.

today was a great day. 
when i arrived yesterday, i asked about the hike that they do here to an area called "Hole in the Wall."  They said that they were not leading the hike today, but that i could do it myself.  it is about 10k and should take about 3 hours.  i asked person after person..."Can I really do it alone?  Is it really safe?  Is it well marked?  Are you SURE?!?"  Each person re-assured me that it was definitely doable on my own.  I wasn't exactly sure what to take from this, but luckily, I didn't have to decide.  I met a nice couple (Ralph and Marguerite) from Jo'burg who were also looking to do the hike...and similarly, were hesitant to do it alone.  So, we decided to meet up this morning. 
We started out and immediately couldn't find the start of the trail.  Luckily, we found somebody to ask.  Once again, this guy told us that the trail was well marked, blah blah blah.  Well, we had a great day, but it might be a small miracle that we all made it out un-injured!  We definitely missed the "trail" on numerous occasions.  At the start, there are arrows painted on rocks.  Now, this was nice, but...I did wonder if they were pointing us in the right direction or not, because they were small rocks...lightweight rocks...rocks that somebody could easily move to point in a different direction.  I am pretty sure that they lead us the right way, but the problems came once there were no longer arrows.  The local kids conveniently place themselves in these areas and ask to be your guide.  The guy who I was with spoke Zulu and a bit of Xhosa, which was helpful.  He asked a few of the kids if we were going the right way....but we didn't take a guide.  At one point, we decided to just follow the coast since the tide was out.  Well, this may not have been the best decision, as we ended up scaling up this mountain face.  There were many rocks that looked like they were solid....but, they basically caused rockslides when you held them.  Super sketchy.  Alas, we made it up and out of that area, and then opted for a "guide."  Two young boys lead us the rest of the way.  Of course, as soon as we decided to let them lead us, the arrows started again!  We were happy to have them guide us and to pay them a few bucks for their work...there are many kids just asking for "sweets" or money...so, these kids who are doing something are much more deserving.  The hostel that I am staying at places a lot of emphasis on supporting the kids who guide or sing or make crafts, but not giving sweets or money to the "beggars" in order to avoid the travellers creating begging children in the community.  After 3 hours, we made it!  The hike was unbelievably beautiful.  It was all along the coast...the ocean is so blue...the surrounding lands so green....sheep and cows all along the way.  The Hole in the Wall is created by waves and it is basically a large hole in the rocks.  As the wave shoots through, you can climb up on either side and jump off of the rocks into the ocean.  Or, you can swim through and ride the wave back.  It was really neat and really beautiful, and well worth the walk.  We were all in agreement that we didn't want to walk back if we didn't have to, especially since by the time that we ate something and relaxed for a bit, it was getting late in the day.  We met two great people who (THANKFULLY!) gave us a ride back. 

After sweating all day and jumping in the ocean, my shower was exceptional.  I just walked up the hill to see the sun set.  The people from the hostel bring a bunch of drinks up there for "sundowners."  I have seen some of the most amazing sunsets since being in Africa, though this was not one of them.  The wind picked up...which hopefully means that tonight will be cooler than last night.  It will be nice to not sleep in a pool of sweat and mosquitos...then again, if tonight is anything like last night, it will be hard to sleep anyway!

Tomorrow, I leave Coffee Bay.  The trip back to the main town is about 2+ hours on the bumpy road, and then I catch a bus to Port Elizabeth.  I think that is another 7+ hours (ugh!).  I will be there in a "quieter" hostel for three nights, and then I go to Jeffrey's Bay for three nights.  I am staying in a guesthouse there, which I am looking forward to!  It is nice to have my own space every once in a while!  After that, I head to Cape Town, which will be another long day on a bus.  I will be there for two days, and then I head home!  Crazy how time has gone by so quickly.

I have met a few nice people here who are also heading to Port Elizabeth tomorrow...so, I will have some familiar faces around at least for another day!

This hostel does a free "African" dinner every Sunday night, so I am going to go check that out now.  Meanwhile, I continue to be bitten by mosquitos. ahhh!


1 comment:

  1. Just wanted to say *thanks* for keeping this journal of your travels. While you might be having some ups and downs during your time in South Africa, your stories are still an outlet for me back here in the States. Moreover, I gotta believe that everyone else who knows you is getting a huge kick out of your griping halfway 'round the world. So keep it up and get some more stories to tell us. haha. :-P Always... -J

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