Friday, November 18, 2011
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Floss is packed away. (in my carry on. of course)
Just gave away the last of my shampoo, conditioner, carrots, cheese, tape, and tea...the random things that I have had with me at all times on this trip. All packed up...catching a cab to the airport in an hour.
Talk to you/see you all soon!
I hope that my blogging has provided some entertainment for you over the past two months.
Thank you for being so supportive of me being here. It was always nice to have a familiar name in my inbox when I checked my email!
Love,
Cori
Monday, January 11, 2010
Did you know...
drive?! They must use public transport or walk. If they are found
driving, they will be arrested and only released when the world cup
ends.
Also, they are giving the kids a month off of school for the world
cup. Nope, they are not making up the time during another part of the
year. Just an extra month off.
And finally, my last random note for the day: if you see a baboon,
don't let him see your cell phone. They like cell phones. They will
take your phone out of your hands and dismantle it. But, they do like
cameras and will pose for photos. If they really like you, they will
put your head in their arms and rub your head!
Another educational day in south africa.
I have had the same headphones for 5 years
into a room with the loudest snorer ever. Awesome.
Saturday, January 9, 2010
back in Cape Town...
This morning, I had to catch the bus to Cape Town. They give the pick-up times in intervals, so that you are ready at the earliest that they may arrive. The time was 8:30-9:00am. Since the bus was picking up at a hostel which I was not staying at, I decided to go a few minutes early...just in case! (however, every other bus has arrived significantly late.) I got there at 8:15 this morning, and stood for a while. At around 8:40, a woman came out and asked me if I was waiting for the Baz Bus. Yup, I was. She said that I missed it a while ago. Great. Luckily, she called the driver and he turned around and came back to get me. He wasn't super happy, but then again, neither was I. I did feel bad that all of the people on the bus had to come back too, but since he was 30 minutes early, I am not sure why he expected me to be there! Anyway, I got on the bus, and everybody was friendly...and eventually, the driver was too.
13 and a half hours later....I am in Cape Town! (around hour 12, we had a little problem when there were 3 seats on the bus and 4 people came to get on...all with tickets. hmm. minor problem. 30 minutes later...sort of fixed, and we were on our way again)
It was a long bus ride and I was really ready to get off of the damn bus, but we did drive along the Garden Route, which is really really beautiful. During other times of year when everything is in bloom, I can only imagine how nice it is! We stopped in a lot of cute towns...I took note of them as places to visit if/when I ever make it back here. Don't worry...I am not adopting any African children, I am not taking a teaching job here, I am not canceling my flight. I REALLY AM coming home this week. Promise =)
As we were driving today, I was thinking about how many different people I have met along the way these past 2 months. Both Africans and visitors. People have such interesting stories, both good and bad. But, for the most part, people really are so friendly and so welcoming.
This country is unbelievably beautiful, yet at the same time, unbelievably fucked up (sorry, can't think of a better word right now). There are so many issues that just make my head hurt trying to think about how they can really make progress. I have had so SO many conversations with different people here about the people, the politics, the history, the culture, etc. and it never becomes boring...and the same topic is never covered twice (well, unless to laugh at something ridiculous). But, as I said, beautiful too. The landscape...beaches, forests, desert, cities, small towns, large towns, townships, rivers, oceans, lakes, ponds, sand dunes, mountains...humidity, heat, dryness, cold, wind, rain, rainbows, thunder, lightning (almost every night!), sunsets and sunrises that are breathtaking.
I just have so much to say as I start to wrap things up and think about my time here.
I guess the rest of it will come up in conversation...or somewhere down the line.
I will be in Cape Town until Wednesday afternoon...
The hostel has Internet, so feel free to write and I will more than likely be able to write back! (no guarantees...i AM still in Africa)
I hope that you are all doing well, and for those of you in Boston, Philly and DC...I will see you next weekend!
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
heaven
Monday, January 4, 2010
When You Read You Begin With A-B-C
a very good place to start.
(that's for you, Bess!)
As I mentioned in my last post, the hostel cooks a free dinner on Sunday night. For the non-vegetarians (since that is all that is relevant to this story), there was lots of rice, some veggies, and some chunky meat thing.
We all ate dinner...it was nice...social, whatever. There was no live music, and people were all pretty tired after a long day in the sun, so I was hopeful that it was going to be a mellow night.
Finished dinner...had some tea (my new addiction since being in this country. damn tea with sugar.)...plucked my eyebrows...flossed my teeth...read my book...Typical Cori things, right? Right.
I met some new guys who were staying in the same dorm room. They seemed pretty young, but pretty chill. There were some others who were clearly going to be drinking into the night, and I have no idea what other sort of drugs the one guy was on, but he was pretty out of it. Either way, he seemed fairly harmless...maybe just a bit annoying. So much for an early, quiet night, I was starting to realize!
Then the trance music starts at the hostel across the road. (across the very, very small road....i.e. in my right eardrum, while sitting on my bed in the humid, mosquito filled smelly room)
The oh-so-lovely music stopped around 2am, so I was thinking that maybe I could actually get to sleep. And then one of the roommates comes back....
I hear him burp...like, a wet burp...like, I had a feeling that he was going to puke, kind of burp.
And then the fountain of rice and meat and alcohol began pouring and splatting onto the floor from the top bunk bed. I looked over at him, and he was totally passed out in the position that he puked. Head hanging off of bed. Puke all over himself, all over bottom bunk bed, all over floor. Room now smelled like shit. Actually, not so much like shit. More like red bull, meat, rice, and alcohol blended up and then stored in a moldy room for a few days. Yup, that's about how the room smelled. The room with no fan or circulation of air at all.
At this point I realized that I was not going to sleep (yet again), and there was no way that I was staying in that room. So, I went outside to the courtyard area. There were still a few people lingering around, but I decided that I would try to sleep in the hammock out there. I went back into the room to grab my sleeping bag (the guy was now awake...clueless...I gave him a good "fuck you" and then walked out. very friendly, i know.) and attempted to get comfortable in the sleeping bag in the hammock, while covering myself to avoid mosquito bites and fluorescent light right above my head, but still hoping to be able to breathe. This was not possible. So, I just sort of laid there and went back and forth between being too hot and swatting away bugs.
While laying there, two of the people from my room came outside. They were a couple who I met earlier in the night. They didn't know that I was there, and they proceeded to sit there and break up. Yup, like right out of a movie sort of break up. "It's not you, it's me." sort of shit. YES, she was right, it WAS her. She was clearly gay! She clearly had a crush on this other girl who she had been hanging out with! I so badly wanted to jump out of the hammock and inform the dude of this, but I didn't...I just tried to stay still and hide in my sleeping bag. Once the break up was over, I had a few minutes of quiet.
Then I heard some animals running my way, and I was pretty sure that I was going to be eaten. Turns out that they were just two dogs, but they still scared the shit out of me.
Laid there for a bit longer. It was now just past 4 in the morning.
Suddenly, I heard this horrible scream. I was pretty sure that it was a scream of somebody in trouble, but it was hard to tell if people were just drunk and messing around or if somebody really needed help. I was trying to listen if I could make out any words (in particular: HELP!!), but I couldn't. It was the middle of the night and I was alone, so I wasn't going to wander the streets to find this person (even though everybody in this town told me how safe it was and how i could hike alone, blah blah blah). I was a bit disturbed, but wasn't really sure what to do...About 3 minutes later, I hear somebody running into the courtyard of the hostel from outside. Like, charging. This is the second moment of the night when I was pretty sure that I was going to die. He comes running through, screaming: "Help! Somebody help! We need a medic! HELP! My friend has just been stabbed!" At this point, I look at him and realize that he definitely needs help...I jump out of my hammock, not really sure what I can do for him. I have a phone, but I don't know who to call....He wakes up his friend who is sleeping in the tent area and continues screaming. Somebody else comes out of her tent and says that there is a doctor staying in one of the dorms. In the meantime, I figure that though I am no doctor, I do have some medical training, and perhaps more common sense than a bunch of drunk people. He (understandably) was totally frantic and all over the place. I asked his friend to show me where the girl was, and he took my hand and ran me across the road. By the time that we got there, there were a few guys helping her and they seemed to have it under control. There were people everywhere, crying and screaming. There was one girl who had been with the girl who got stabbed, and literally walked away for a minute...and that's when it happened. She was really losing it, so I sat her down before she had a total panic attack or passed out. Then she realized that she didn't know where the third girl was who was staying with them. More chaos.
Somebody came and picked up the girl. She was doing OK. Still alert...she was able to stand up and walk to the car. She definitely lost a lot of blood though. Not really sure where they took her, as we were pretty far from anything resembling a hospital.
Then, all of a sudden, there is running and screaming going on in the hostel. They found the guy!
When the girl was screaming, these two guys who have a house nearby heard her and came outside to help. They started chasing down the guy who attacked her, and as he ran across the river, they pretty much stoned him. They threw rocks at him until he fell to the ground, and then they tied up his hands and dragged him back to the hostel. When they got him back there, people were pounding on him....on their way to killing him. Somebody yelled to them to think about what they were doing...Yes, this guy just did a horrible thing, but were any of these people really wanting to kill somebody?!
So, after they beat the shit out of him, they stopped. Probably just short of killing him.
Still in shock, I stood for a minute. I asked the two guys if they could walk me back to my hostel, cause there was now no way in hell that I was going alone.
They kindly walked me back. We stayed and talked for a bit, and I got the story of what had happened.
Evidently the three girls were staying in a tent on one side of the hostel, where they were the only tent. Not wanting to be alone over there, they decided they they were going to crash with their friends in a dorm. So, when the girl was attacked, she was just going to her tent to get her sleeping bag. It sounded like the guy tried to rape her and then ended up stabbing her after she was screaming. Evidently he also raped a 5 year old a few years ago. Somebody from the town recognized him.
Needless to say, I definitely didn't go to bed after this. I tried to read my book, drink some tea, pace back and forth outside...Wasn't really sure what to do with myself, but between the smell of vomit that was stuck in my nose and the whole thing that just happened, I was pretty sick to my stomach. THANKFULLY, at about 6:30, I saw some people packing up their car and asked where they were headed. I wasn't actually asking for a ride, I was just making friendly conversation. It turned out that they were driving right past the town that I was heading to. (My bus was supposed to leave at noon....back up the terrible road....back to the main town....to catch another 7-8 hour bus.) They kindly offered me a ride, and I couldn't have jumped on that offer any quicker. I threw my stuff into my bag and got out of there as soon as possible. They were super friendly...a young couple from Austria...they had arrived the same day as me...the perfect people to spend the day with.
Miraculously, I made it to Port Elizabeth without puking, though I was afraid that I was going to puke for the first 3 hours.
I guess I have heard stories of people being attacked, but I have never been in the middle of it like this. It scared me, but more than that, just made me sad. Sad because people are so fucked up and do things like that. And sad because this girls life is forever changed. And sad because she is just one of so many people who encounter situations like this. It made me think about the fact that most of the girls at camp had been raped, and a few of the counselors had scars from being stabbed, and I just can't imagine trying to go on with life without being afraid of everyone/everything. There was a part of me that wanted to get on a plane and fly home. Though I realize that I need to be cautious, I also need to remind myself that most people are good people and I can't leave this country walking around thinking that everybody is going to do something bad.
So, that was my night/morning!
I am in Port Elizabeth now, and I took my own room at the hostel. Definitely in need of a night of sleep. It is a quiet place in a mellow area...a welcome change.
I was supposed to travel with two others today who are probably wondering what on earth happened to me...how I disappeared from the hostel in a super remote town! They are booked at the same place as me, so I will hopefully see them when they arrive tonight.
Off to get some food for dinner, and then back to my hostel to relax with normal people and try to clear my head...
For the rest of my trip, I am in surf towns..staying in good places. So, please don't worry about me too much now that I have shared this story.
I promise that I don't wander around at night alone, even in the surf towns! (which is why i need to end this blog...cause it will be getting dark soon!)
love,
cori
Sunday, January 3, 2010
awesome day.
when i arrived yesterday, i asked about the hike that they do here to an area called "Hole in the Wall." They said that they were not leading the hike today, but that i could do it myself. it is about 10k and should take about 3 hours. i asked person after person..."Can I really do it alone? Is it really safe? Is it well marked? Are you SURE?!?" Each person re-assured me that it was definitely doable on my own. I wasn't exactly sure what to take from this, but luckily, I didn't have to decide. I met a nice couple (Ralph and Marguerite) from Jo'burg who were also looking to do the hike...and similarly, were hesitant to do it alone. So, we decided to meet up this morning.
We started out and immediately couldn't find the start of the trail. Luckily, we found somebody to ask. Once again, this guy told us that the trail was well marked, blah blah blah. Well, we had a great day, but it might be a small miracle that we all made it out un-injured! We definitely missed the "trail" on numerous occasions. At the start, there are arrows painted on rocks. Now, this was nice, but...I did wonder if they were pointing us in the right direction or not, because they were small rocks...lightweight rocks...rocks that somebody could easily move to point in a different direction. I am pretty sure that they lead us the right way, but the problems came once there were no longer arrows. The local kids conveniently place themselves in these areas and ask to be your guide. The guy who I was with spoke Zulu and a bit of Xhosa, which was helpful. He asked a few of the kids if we were going the right way....but we didn't take a guide. At one point, we decided to just follow the coast since the tide was out. Well, this may not have been the best decision, as we ended up scaling up this mountain face. There were many rocks that looked like they were solid....but, they basically caused rockslides when you held them. Super sketchy. Alas, we made it up and out of that area, and then opted for a "guide." Two young boys lead us the rest of the way. Of course, as soon as we decided to let them lead us, the arrows started again! We were happy to have them guide us and to pay them a few bucks for their work...there are many kids just asking for "sweets" or money...so, these kids who are doing something are much more deserving. The hostel that I am staying at places a lot of emphasis on supporting the kids who guide or sing or make crafts, but not giving sweets or money to the "beggars" in order to avoid the travellers creating begging children in the community. After 3 hours, we made it! The hike was unbelievably beautiful. It was all along the coast...the ocean is so blue...the surrounding lands so green....sheep and cows all along the way. The Hole in the Wall is created by waves and it is basically a large hole in the rocks. As the wave shoots through, you can climb up on either side and jump off of the rocks into the ocean. Or, you can swim through and ride the wave back. It was really neat and really beautiful, and well worth the walk. We were all in agreement that we didn't want to walk back if we didn't have to, especially since by the time that we ate something and relaxed for a bit, it was getting late in the day. We met two great people who (THANKFULLY!) gave us a ride back.
After sweating all day and jumping in the ocean, my shower was exceptional. I just walked up the hill to see the sun set. The people from the hostel bring a bunch of drinks up there for "sundowners." I have seen some of the most amazing sunsets since being in Africa, though this was not one of them. The wind picked up...which hopefully means that tonight will be cooler than last night. It will be nice to not sleep in a pool of sweat and mosquitos...then again, if tonight is anything like last night, it will be hard to sleep anyway!
Tomorrow, I leave Coffee Bay. The trip back to the main town is about 2+ hours on the bumpy road, and then I catch a bus to Port Elizabeth. I think that is another 7+ hours (ugh!). I will be there in a "quieter" hostel for three nights, and then I go to Jeffrey's Bay for three nights. I am staying in a guesthouse there, which I am looking forward to! It is nice to have my own space every once in a while! After that, I head to Cape Town, which will be another long day on a bus. I will be there for two days, and then I head home! Crazy how time has gone by so quickly.
I have met a few nice people here who are also heading to Port Elizabeth tomorrow...so, I will have some familiar faces around at least for another day!
This hostel does a free "African" dinner every Sunday night, so I am going to go check that out now. Meanwhile, I continue to be bitten by mosquitos. ahhh!
through sheep, cows, donkeys and potholes....
Thursday, December 31, 2009
umm. is this real life?!
let me set the scene for you:
center of it all
I walked all around Durban yesterday. One thing that I had not known is how big the Indian culture is here. In some areas, I no longer felt like I was in South Africa!
Some random things that I thought were funny/interesting/noteworthy:
-Sign advertising an attorney. His last name was Ramdass. Sign read: Ramdass Attorney.
-Sign advertising a plumber. Sign read: Rock Hard Plumber
-Kids in park playing soccer with an empty liter coke bottle. Not even phased by the fact that it wasn't a ball.
-I went to go meet some of the other counselors from the camp. They told me to meet them at "The Workshop," which I looked up (thank goodness for iTouch!) and realized was a mall. I wandered for a bit and then found a cab. He didn't know where the place was, so I gave him the address and we found it. Later, I realized that I think that I told him that it was called "The Warehouse," which is why he had no idea what I was talking about. Oops. This reminded me of when I was a kid and I told people that I got my ears pierced in The Cottage (I meant, The Village in NYC!). I made it there safely, and I was definitely the only white person in a many mile radius. It was good to see some familar faces, and I think that I am going to meet up with them again today.
-Walked down to the beaches. It was super windy and gray outside. The kind of day where in SD nobody would be at the beach. It was SOO crowded. Couldn't even see the sand sort of crowded. There were places to go to find missing children, sort of crowded.
I bought a long sleeve shirt yesterday, cause i have nothing warm with me. They forgot to take off the security tag, so i am going to walk back down there now to get it taken off...
Happy New Year!!!
Wednesday, December 30, 2009
To the other extreme
the place where I am being picked up on Saturday morning. I have to
be ready at 6:30am. So, I decided to stop in and see if they have a
bed available, since it makes more sense to stay there rather than cab
there at the crack of dawn. They were able to get me a bed in a 10
person dorm for two nights. The place is the typical party hostel,
with bar and loud music at all hours. Not especially clean either,
but definitely more social and more central and with internet! So, it
should be an interesting (perhaps annoying) and memorable new years
after all!
Maybe not the best choice....
this surfers place away from the city, thinking that mellow and safe
was the way to go. The problem is that I am now staying in this hut
near the beach, but the weather sucks and I am far from everything and
the only way to get anywhere is with a taxi. I have a feeling that I
am going to have the quietest, earliest to bed new years eve...ever!
At least I have a bunch of lizards,frogs,and mosquitos to keep me
company! (don't worry, I am in a malaria free area)
Maybe not the best choice....
this surfers place away from the city, thinking that mellow and safe
was the way to go. The problem is that I am now staying in this hut
near the beach, but the weather sucks and I am far from everything and
the only way to get anywhere is with a taxi. I have a feeling that I
am going to have the quietest, earliest to bed new years eve...ever!
At least I have a bunch of lizards,frogs,and mosquitos to keep me
company! (don't worry, I am in a malaria free area)
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Landing: take two
words. I have a hundred or so photos, but they don't do justice. I
feel so fortunate to have had the opportunity to join Jodi on this
safari.
We arrived at the airport on Saturday morning and realized that we
were in for quite a luxurious trip. Far from the hostels and camp,
that's for sure. We were the only two people on our flight!! A 12
passenger plane...just the two pilots and the two of us! It was a
beautiful (and slightly nauseating) one hour flight to the Madikwe
Game Reserve area. It was a bit nerve wracking when we hit turbulence
and i watched the pilot tighten his seat belt! He then looked back at
me with a smile and a thumbs up. Excellent. Much better. As we were
landing I tapped Jodi on the shoulder, as I was sure that we were
about to die. We were definitely overshooting the runway. As we got
close to the ground, we suddenly shot up again! The pilot looked back
and let us know that there were zebras on the runway. Hah! This was a
great introduction to the trip. Zebras on the runway. REALLY?! (a
definite "is this real life" moment)
We were picked up by a great guy named Stuart who would be our guide
for our time there. To get to the lodge, we drove back down the
runway (read: dirt strip) where we did in fact see the zebras that had
been in the way, as well as a few giraffes. Amazing. The lodge was
incredible, aside from the millions of ants that found there way into
all of my stuff.
We woke at 5am each day and went on a drive for a few hours and then
went on another in the evenings. Elephants, giraffes, wildebests,
impalas, wild dogs, lions, rhinos, hippos, buffalos, kudu, so many
beautiful birds...
Though it was SO beautiful and such a unique and amazing experience, I
am ready to go back to hostels and traveling the coast for my last two
weeks here. Off to Durban in a few hours! Jodi heads back to the
states this evening, so it is just me again. But, I may meet up with
some of the counselors from camp later this week, and many people have
given me advice of places to go/things to see on my trip down the coast.
I should have internet access almost every day for the rest of my
trip, so feel free to email and I will do my best to respond.
Love!!
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Back in jo'burg...until the morning!
Flew back from Bloemfontein this afternoon...had a nice, relaxing,
mellow few days on the farm. If I don't run around soon I might go
crazy, but otherwise, all is well! It was great to see an old camp
friend again (Laurens) and meet his family. They were extremely
welcoming and kind. They weren't sure what to do with a vegetarian,
but somehow still managed to feed me more than enough, including lots
of puss(otherwise known as custard). I went to my first braai (BBQ),
where we were high on a hill when the wind picked up and we thought
that we were going to start a forest fire. It was one of the many
"only in Africa" moments. The farm was beautiful and HUGE...had some
interesting conversations about the country and it's history and the
range of problems that exist here today. I really enjoy hearing the
viewpoints of so many different people, an these were the first
Afrikaners that I had spoken with since arriving.
At the airport, I met up with my friend Jodi who I met at the camp.
We checked into a hotel (yup! No hostel for me tonight!) and then
another friend from camp came and picked us up. We went and hung at
her friends house for a bit, though there was a small exodus upon our
arrival. Just another awkward moment to add to the list! It turned
out that they had been hanging out since this morning and it was
getting late.
Jodi and I leave for safari tomorrow morning. I have no idea whether
or not I will have internet there, but I will be back in the airport
for a few hours on Tuesday, so I will update again then.
I hope that you all had a nice Xmas...or, for my non Xmas celebrating
family, I hope that you all had some nice family time this week.
Hopefully I will be there the next time you are all together.
Have a great weekend!!
Love, cori
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Welcomed luxury
have my own room....and bathroom...no frogs or Mosquitos....no singing
and dancing of Zulu songs....no power outages....I am not being
electrocuted every time that I shower...and I have access to foods
that are not all white on color and made from some sort of corn product.
I am in a part of Johannesburg called Melville. I arrived here
yesterday with two of the girls who were also volunteers...jodi and
aly. Both of them are camp directors so you can imagine that we got
along pretty well.
Aly left for England today and jodi left for cape town. So, this is
actually my first night alone since arriving! Tomorrow I am going to
Bloemfontein to visit an old camp friend and then I changed my plans
so that I fly back here on Friday and meet up with jodi. We are going
on safari together. Super excited to have somebody to go with!!
I am typing on an itouch so it would take me hours to write all about
the camp experience. I will have to do that in person... Which will
also make it much more entertaining. Suffice it to say that I have no
regrets at all. But, I was definitely ready to be done and I don't
know what I would have done if there had not been other international
volunteers there with me. There were some seriously strange
moments....interesting ones....frustrating ones...
There was constant singing and dancing. There were many times of
cluelessness as I was surrounded by people speaking Zulu. But, these
kids were incredible and camp definitely provided a life changing
experience for them. It was unbelievable to be a part of it.
I hope that you are all having a healthy holiday season!!