It's HOT today! SOO hot. I packed my jeans in my backpack, cause it is one of those days when you sweat as soon as you come out of a cold shower.
Just gave away the last of my shampoo, conditioner, carrots, cheese, tape, and tea...the random things that I have had with me at all times on this trip. All packed up...catching a cab to the airport in an hour.
Talk to you/see you all soon!
I hope that my blogging has provided some entertainment for you over the past two months.
Thank you for being so supportive of me being here. It was always nice to have a familiar name in my inbox when I checked my email!
Love,
Cori
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Monday, January 11, 2010
Did you know...
That during the world cup, south Africans will not be allowed to
drive?! They must use public transport or walk. If they are found
driving, they will be arrested and only released when the world cup
ends.
drive?! They must use public transport or walk. If they are found
driving, they will be arrested and only released when the world cup
ends.
Also, they are giving the kids a month off of school for the world
cup. Nope, they are not making up the time during another part of the
year. Just an extra month off.
And finally, my last random note for the day: if you see a baboon,
don't let him see your cell phone. They like cell phones. They will
take your phone out of your hands and dismantle it. But, they do like
cameras and will pose for photos. If they really like you, they will
put your head in their arms and rub your head!
Another educational day in south africa.
I have had the same headphones for 5 years
And somehow I decided to lose the ear piece now. Just in time to move
into a room with the loudest snorer ever. Awesome.
into a room with the loudest snorer ever. Awesome.
Saturday, January 9, 2010
back in Cape Town...
My last few days in J-Bay were really nice and pretty relaxing. When the wind wasn't blowing, it was so SO beautiful and warm there, and the ocean was unbelievably refreshing. I was staying at a guesthouse just overlooking Supertubes (where the Billabong Pro contest is held in July), which was just the perfect change from a hostel. It was clean and quiet. The owners (Steve and Anne) basically took me in as their child. They made great breakfasts each morning, and invited me to have dinner with them each night. They used to be in the restaurant and bakery business, so they made great food. At first I felt badly that they were going to cook vegetarian dinners just for me, but I soon realized that they really didn't mind. The three of us sat and had dinner and tea each night, and I really felt like I was in a family or friends home...not one of two strangers! They were just so SO sweet. Also, they had an awesome dog. Overall, perfect...and perfectly timed in my trip.
This morning, I had to catch the bus to Cape Town. They give the pick-up times in intervals, so that you are ready at the earliest that they may arrive. The time was 8:30-9:00am. Since the bus was picking up at a hostel which I was not staying at, I decided to go a few minutes early...just in case! (however, every other bus has arrived significantly late.) I got there at 8:15 this morning, and stood for a while. At around 8:40, a woman came out and asked me if I was waiting for the Baz Bus. Yup, I was. She said that I missed it a while ago. Great. Luckily, she called the driver and he turned around and came back to get me. He wasn't super happy, but then again, neither was I. I did feel bad that all of the people on the bus had to come back too, but since he was 30 minutes early, I am not sure why he expected me to be there! Anyway, I got on the bus, and everybody was friendly...and eventually, the driver was too.
13 and a half hours later....I am in Cape Town! (around hour 12, we had a little problem when there were 3 seats on the bus and 4 people came to get on...all with tickets. hmm. minor problem. 30 minutes later...sort of fixed, and we were on our way again)
It was a long bus ride and I was really ready to get off of the damn bus, but we did drive along the Garden Route, which is really really beautiful. During other times of year when everything is in bloom, I can only imagine how nice it is! We stopped in a lot of cute towns...I took note of them as places to visit if/when I ever make it back here. Don't worry...I am not adopting any African children, I am not taking a teaching job here, I am not canceling my flight. I REALLY AM coming home this week. Promise =)
As we were driving today, I was thinking about how many different people I have met along the way these past 2 months. Both Africans and visitors. People have such interesting stories, both good and bad. But, for the most part, people really are so friendly and so welcoming.
This country is unbelievably beautiful, yet at the same time, unbelievably fucked up (sorry, can't think of a better word right now). There are so many issues that just make my head hurt trying to think about how they can really make progress. I have had so SO many conversations with different people here about the people, the politics, the history, the culture, etc. and it never becomes boring...and the same topic is never covered twice (well, unless to laugh at something ridiculous). But, as I said, beautiful too. The landscape...beaches, forests, desert, cities, small towns, large towns, townships, rivers, oceans, lakes, ponds, sand dunes, mountains...humidity, heat, dryness, cold, wind, rain, rainbows, thunder, lightning (almost every night!), sunsets and sunrises that are breathtaking.
I just have so much to say as I start to wrap things up and think about my time here.
I guess the rest of it will come up in conversation...or somewhere down the line.
I will be in Cape Town until Wednesday afternoon...
The hostel has Internet, so feel free to write and I will more than likely be able to write back! (no guarantees...i AM still in Africa)
I hope that you are all doing well, and for those of you in Boston, Philly and DC...I will see you next weekend!
This morning, I had to catch the bus to Cape Town. They give the pick-up times in intervals, so that you are ready at the earliest that they may arrive. The time was 8:30-9:00am. Since the bus was picking up at a hostel which I was not staying at, I decided to go a few minutes early...just in case! (however, every other bus has arrived significantly late.) I got there at 8:15 this morning, and stood for a while. At around 8:40, a woman came out and asked me if I was waiting for the Baz Bus. Yup, I was. She said that I missed it a while ago. Great. Luckily, she called the driver and he turned around and came back to get me. He wasn't super happy, but then again, neither was I. I did feel bad that all of the people on the bus had to come back too, but since he was 30 minutes early, I am not sure why he expected me to be there! Anyway, I got on the bus, and everybody was friendly...and eventually, the driver was too.
13 and a half hours later....I am in Cape Town! (around hour 12, we had a little problem when there were 3 seats on the bus and 4 people came to get on...all with tickets. hmm. minor problem. 30 minutes later...sort of fixed, and we were on our way again)
It was a long bus ride and I was really ready to get off of the damn bus, but we did drive along the Garden Route, which is really really beautiful. During other times of year when everything is in bloom, I can only imagine how nice it is! We stopped in a lot of cute towns...I took note of them as places to visit if/when I ever make it back here. Don't worry...I am not adopting any African children, I am not taking a teaching job here, I am not canceling my flight. I REALLY AM coming home this week. Promise =)
As we were driving today, I was thinking about how many different people I have met along the way these past 2 months. Both Africans and visitors. People have such interesting stories, both good and bad. But, for the most part, people really are so friendly and so welcoming.
This country is unbelievably beautiful, yet at the same time, unbelievably fucked up (sorry, can't think of a better word right now). There are so many issues that just make my head hurt trying to think about how they can really make progress. I have had so SO many conversations with different people here about the people, the politics, the history, the culture, etc. and it never becomes boring...and the same topic is never covered twice (well, unless to laugh at something ridiculous). But, as I said, beautiful too. The landscape...beaches, forests, desert, cities, small towns, large towns, townships, rivers, oceans, lakes, ponds, sand dunes, mountains...humidity, heat, dryness, cold, wind, rain, rainbows, thunder, lightning (almost every night!), sunsets and sunrises that are breathtaking.
I just have so much to say as I start to wrap things up and think about my time here.
I guess the rest of it will come up in conversation...or somewhere down the line.
I will be in Cape Town until Wednesday afternoon...
The hostel has Internet, so feel free to write and I will more than likely be able to write back! (no guarantees...i AM still in Africa)
I hope that you are all doing well, and for those of you in Boston, Philly and DC...I will see you next weekend!
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
heaven
yup, i think i arrived in heaven.
jeffreys bay ("J Bay") is BEAUTIFUL. and get this...it is safe too!!
This is the first place that I have been to that has windows without bars in front and front doors without gates and houses without electric fences.
the beaches are unbelievably beautiful. there is surf for people of all skills. the people are friendly. i am staying at a great guest house with the nicest owners.
this definitely came at the right part of my trip. i will be here until Saturday, when I have a long long bus ride to Cape Town.
Monday, January 4, 2010
When You Read You Begin With A-B-C
Let's start at the very beginning,
a very good place to start.
(that's for you, Bess!)
As I mentioned in my last post, the hostel cooks a free dinner on Sunday night. For the non-vegetarians (since that is all that is relevant to this story), there was lots of rice, some veggies, and some chunky meat thing.
We all ate dinner...it was nice...social, whatever. There was no live music, and people were all pretty tired after a long day in the sun, so I was hopeful that it was going to be a mellow night.
Finished dinner...had some tea (my new addiction since being in this country. damn tea with sugar.)...plucked my eyebrows...flossed my teeth...read my book...Typical Cori things, right? Right.
I met some new guys who were staying in the same dorm room. They seemed pretty young, but pretty chill. There were some others who were clearly going to be drinking into the night, and I have no idea what other sort of drugs the one guy was on, but he was pretty out of it. Either way, he seemed fairly harmless...maybe just a bit annoying. So much for an early, quiet night, I was starting to realize!
Then the trance music starts at the hostel across the road. (across the very, very small road....i.e. in my right eardrum, while sitting on my bed in the humid, mosquito filled smelly room)
The oh-so-lovely music stopped around 2am, so I was thinking that maybe I could actually get to sleep. And then one of the roommates comes back....
I hear him burp...like, a wet burp...like, I had a feeling that he was going to puke, kind of burp.
And then the fountain of rice and meat and alcohol began pouring and splatting onto the floor from the top bunk bed. I looked over at him, and he was totally passed out in the position that he puked. Head hanging off of bed. Puke all over himself, all over bottom bunk bed, all over floor. Room now smelled like shit. Actually, not so much like shit. More like red bull, meat, rice, and alcohol blended up and then stored in a moldy room for a few days. Yup, that's about how the room smelled. The room with no fan or circulation of air at all.
At this point I realized that I was not going to sleep (yet again), and there was no way that I was staying in that room. So, I went outside to the courtyard area. There were still a few people lingering around, but I decided that I would try to sleep in the hammock out there. I went back into the room to grab my sleeping bag (the guy was now awake...clueless...I gave him a good "fuck you" and then walked out. very friendly, i know.) and attempted to get comfortable in the sleeping bag in the hammock, while covering myself to avoid mosquito bites and fluorescent light right above my head, but still hoping to be able to breathe. This was not possible. So, I just sort of laid there and went back and forth between being too hot and swatting away bugs.
While laying there, two of the people from my room came outside. They were a couple who I met earlier in the night. They didn't know that I was there, and they proceeded to sit there and break up. Yup, like right out of a movie sort of break up. "It's not you, it's me." sort of shit. YES, she was right, it WAS her. She was clearly gay! She clearly had a crush on this other girl who she had been hanging out with! I so badly wanted to jump out of the hammock and inform the dude of this, but I didn't...I just tried to stay still and hide in my sleeping bag. Once the break up was over, I had a few minutes of quiet.
Then I heard some animals running my way, and I was pretty sure that I was going to be eaten. Turns out that they were just two dogs, but they still scared the shit out of me.
Laid there for a bit longer. It was now just past 4 in the morning.
Suddenly, I heard this horrible scream. I was pretty sure that it was a scream of somebody in trouble, but it was hard to tell if people were just drunk and messing around or if somebody really needed help. I was trying to listen if I could make out any words (in particular: HELP!!), but I couldn't. It was the middle of the night and I was alone, so I wasn't going to wander the streets to find this person (even though everybody in this town told me how safe it was and how i could hike alone, blah blah blah). I was a bit disturbed, but wasn't really sure what to do...About 3 minutes later, I hear somebody running into the courtyard of the hostel from outside. Like, charging. This is the second moment of the night when I was pretty sure that I was going to die. He comes running through, screaming: "Help! Somebody help! We need a medic! HELP! My friend has just been stabbed!" At this point, I look at him and realize that he definitely needs help...I jump out of my hammock, not really sure what I can do for him. I have a phone, but I don't know who to call....He wakes up his friend who is sleeping in the tent area and continues screaming. Somebody else comes out of her tent and says that there is a doctor staying in one of the dorms. In the meantime, I figure that though I am no doctor, I do have some medical training, and perhaps more common sense than a bunch of drunk people. He (understandably) was totally frantic and all over the place. I asked his friend to show me where the girl was, and he took my hand and ran me across the road. By the time that we got there, there were a few guys helping her and they seemed to have it under control. There were people everywhere, crying and screaming. There was one girl who had been with the girl who got stabbed, and literally walked away for a minute...and that's when it happened. She was really losing it, so I sat her down before she had a total panic attack or passed out. Then she realized that she didn't know where the third girl was who was staying with them. More chaos.
Somebody came and picked up the girl. She was doing OK. Still alert...she was able to stand up and walk to the car. She definitely lost a lot of blood though. Not really sure where they took her, as we were pretty far from anything resembling a hospital.
Then, all of a sudden, there is running and screaming going on in the hostel. They found the guy!
When the girl was screaming, these two guys who have a house nearby heard her and came outside to help. They started chasing down the guy who attacked her, and as he ran across the river, they pretty much stoned him. They threw rocks at him until he fell to the ground, and then they tied up his hands and dragged him back to the hostel. When they got him back there, people were pounding on him....on their way to killing him. Somebody yelled to them to think about what they were doing...Yes, this guy just did a horrible thing, but were any of these people really wanting to kill somebody?!
So, after they beat the shit out of him, they stopped. Probably just short of killing him.
Still in shock, I stood for a minute. I asked the two guys if they could walk me back to my hostel, cause there was now no way in hell that I was going alone.
They kindly walked me back. We stayed and talked for a bit, and I got the story of what had happened.
Evidently the three girls were staying in a tent on one side of the hostel, where they were the only tent. Not wanting to be alone over there, they decided they they were going to crash with their friends in a dorm. So, when the girl was attacked, she was just going to her tent to get her sleeping bag. It sounded like the guy tried to rape her and then ended up stabbing her after she was screaming. Evidently he also raped a 5 year old a few years ago. Somebody from the town recognized him.
Needless to say, I definitely didn't go to bed after this. I tried to read my book, drink some tea, pace back and forth outside...Wasn't really sure what to do with myself, but between the smell of vomit that was stuck in my nose and the whole thing that just happened, I was pretty sick to my stomach. THANKFULLY, at about 6:30, I saw some people packing up their car and asked where they were headed. I wasn't actually asking for a ride, I was just making friendly conversation. It turned out that they were driving right past the town that I was heading to. (My bus was supposed to leave at noon....back up the terrible road....back to the main town....to catch another 7-8 hour bus.) They kindly offered me a ride, and I couldn't have jumped on that offer any quicker. I threw my stuff into my bag and got out of there as soon as possible. They were super friendly...a young couple from Austria...they had arrived the same day as me...the perfect people to spend the day with.
Miraculously, I made it to Port Elizabeth without puking, though I was afraid that I was going to puke for the first 3 hours.
I guess I have heard stories of people being attacked, but I have never been in the middle of it like this. It scared me, but more than that, just made me sad. Sad because people are so fucked up and do things like that. And sad because this girls life is forever changed. And sad because she is just one of so many people who encounter situations like this. It made me think about the fact that most of the girls at camp had been raped, and a few of the counselors had scars from being stabbed, and I just can't imagine trying to go on with life without being afraid of everyone/everything. There was a part of me that wanted to get on a plane and fly home. Though I realize that I need to be cautious, I also need to remind myself that most people are good people and I can't leave this country walking around thinking that everybody is going to do something bad.
So, that was my night/morning!
I am in Port Elizabeth now, and I took my own room at the hostel. Definitely in need of a night of sleep. It is a quiet place in a mellow area...a welcome change.
I was supposed to travel with two others today who are probably wondering what on earth happened to me...how I disappeared from the hostel in a super remote town! They are booked at the same place as me, so I will hopefully see them when they arrive tonight.
Off to get some food for dinner, and then back to my hostel to relax with normal people and try to clear my head...
For the rest of my trip, I am in surf towns..staying in good places. So, please don't worry about me too much now that I have shared this story.
I promise that I don't wander around at night alone, even in the surf towns! (which is why i need to end this blog...cause it will be getting dark soon!)
love,
cori
a very good place to start.
(that's for you, Bess!)
As I mentioned in my last post, the hostel cooks a free dinner on Sunday night. For the non-vegetarians (since that is all that is relevant to this story), there was lots of rice, some veggies, and some chunky meat thing.
We all ate dinner...it was nice...social, whatever. There was no live music, and people were all pretty tired after a long day in the sun, so I was hopeful that it was going to be a mellow night.
Finished dinner...had some tea (my new addiction since being in this country. damn tea with sugar.)...plucked my eyebrows...flossed my teeth...read my book...Typical Cori things, right? Right.
I met some new guys who were staying in the same dorm room. They seemed pretty young, but pretty chill. There were some others who were clearly going to be drinking into the night, and I have no idea what other sort of drugs the one guy was on, but he was pretty out of it. Either way, he seemed fairly harmless...maybe just a bit annoying. So much for an early, quiet night, I was starting to realize!
Then the trance music starts at the hostel across the road. (across the very, very small road....i.e. in my right eardrum, while sitting on my bed in the humid, mosquito filled smelly room)
The oh-so-lovely music stopped around 2am, so I was thinking that maybe I could actually get to sleep. And then one of the roommates comes back....
I hear him burp...like, a wet burp...like, I had a feeling that he was going to puke, kind of burp.
And then the fountain of rice and meat and alcohol began pouring and splatting onto the floor from the top bunk bed. I looked over at him, and he was totally passed out in the position that he puked. Head hanging off of bed. Puke all over himself, all over bottom bunk bed, all over floor. Room now smelled like shit. Actually, not so much like shit. More like red bull, meat, rice, and alcohol blended up and then stored in a moldy room for a few days. Yup, that's about how the room smelled. The room with no fan or circulation of air at all.
At this point I realized that I was not going to sleep (yet again), and there was no way that I was staying in that room. So, I went outside to the courtyard area. There were still a few people lingering around, but I decided that I would try to sleep in the hammock out there. I went back into the room to grab my sleeping bag (the guy was now awake...clueless...I gave him a good "fuck you" and then walked out. very friendly, i know.) and attempted to get comfortable in the sleeping bag in the hammock, while covering myself to avoid mosquito bites and fluorescent light right above my head, but still hoping to be able to breathe. This was not possible. So, I just sort of laid there and went back and forth between being too hot and swatting away bugs.
While laying there, two of the people from my room came outside. They were a couple who I met earlier in the night. They didn't know that I was there, and they proceeded to sit there and break up. Yup, like right out of a movie sort of break up. "It's not you, it's me." sort of shit. YES, she was right, it WAS her. She was clearly gay! She clearly had a crush on this other girl who she had been hanging out with! I so badly wanted to jump out of the hammock and inform the dude of this, but I didn't...I just tried to stay still and hide in my sleeping bag. Once the break up was over, I had a few minutes of quiet.
Then I heard some animals running my way, and I was pretty sure that I was going to be eaten. Turns out that they were just two dogs, but they still scared the shit out of me.
Laid there for a bit longer. It was now just past 4 in the morning.
Suddenly, I heard this horrible scream. I was pretty sure that it was a scream of somebody in trouble, but it was hard to tell if people were just drunk and messing around or if somebody really needed help. I was trying to listen if I could make out any words (in particular: HELP!!), but I couldn't. It was the middle of the night and I was alone, so I wasn't going to wander the streets to find this person (even though everybody in this town told me how safe it was and how i could hike alone, blah blah blah). I was a bit disturbed, but wasn't really sure what to do...About 3 minutes later, I hear somebody running into the courtyard of the hostel from outside. Like, charging. This is the second moment of the night when I was pretty sure that I was going to die. He comes running through, screaming: "Help! Somebody help! We need a medic! HELP! My friend has just been stabbed!" At this point, I look at him and realize that he definitely needs help...I jump out of my hammock, not really sure what I can do for him. I have a phone, but I don't know who to call....He wakes up his friend who is sleeping in the tent area and continues screaming. Somebody else comes out of her tent and says that there is a doctor staying in one of the dorms. In the meantime, I figure that though I am no doctor, I do have some medical training, and perhaps more common sense than a bunch of drunk people. He (understandably) was totally frantic and all over the place. I asked his friend to show me where the girl was, and he took my hand and ran me across the road. By the time that we got there, there were a few guys helping her and they seemed to have it under control. There were people everywhere, crying and screaming. There was one girl who had been with the girl who got stabbed, and literally walked away for a minute...and that's when it happened. She was really losing it, so I sat her down before she had a total panic attack or passed out. Then she realized that she didn't know where the third girl was who was staying with them. More chaos.
Somebody came and picked up the girl. She was doing OK. Still alert...she was able to stand up and walk to the car. She definitely lost a lot of blood though. Not really sure where they took her, as we were pretty far from anything resembling a hospital.
Then, all of a sudden, there is running and screaming going on in the hostel. They found the guy!
When the girl was screaming, these two guys who have a house nearby heard her and came outside to help. They started chasing down the guy who attacked her, and as he ran across the river, they pretty much stoned him. They threw rocks at him until he fell to the ground, and then they tied up his hands and dragged him back to the hostel. When they got him back there, people were pounding on him....on their way to killing him. Somebody yelled to them to think about what they were doing...Yes, this guy just did a horrible thing, but were any of these people really wanting to kill somebody?!
So, after they beat the shit out of him, they stopped. Probably just short of killing him.
Still in shock, I stood for a minute. I asked the two guys if they could walk me back to my hostel, cause there was now no way in hell that I was going alone.
They kindly walked me back. We stayed and talked for a bit, and I got the story of what had happened.
Evidently the three girls were staying in a tent on one side of the hostel, where they were the only tent. Not wanting to be alone over there, they decided they they were going to crash with their friends in a dorm. So, when the girl was attacked, she was just going to her tent to get her sleeping bag. It sounded like the guy tried to rape her and then ended up stabbing her after she was screaming. Evidently he also raped a 5 year old a few years ago. Somebody from the town recognized him.
Needless to say, I definitely didn't go to bed after this. I tried to read my book, drink some tea, pace back and forth outside...Wasn't really sure what to do with myself, but between the smell of vomit that was stuck in my nose and the whole thing that just happened, I was pretty sick to my stomach. THANKFULLY, at about 6:30, I saw some people packing up their car and asked where they were headed. I wasn't actually asking for a ride, I was just making friendly conversation. It turned out that they were driving right past the town that I was heading to. (My bus was supposed to leave at noon....back up the terrible road....back to the main town....to catch another 7-8 hour bus.) They kindly offered me a ride, and I couldn't have jumped on that offer any quicker. I threw my stuff into my bag and got out of there as soon as possible. They were super friendly...a young couple from Austria...they had arrived the same day as me...the perfect people to spend the day with.
Miraculously, I made it to Port Elizabeth without puking, though I was afraid that I was going to puke for the first 3 hours.
I guess I have heard stories of people being attacked, but I have never been in the middle of it like this. It scared me, but more than that, just made me sad. Sad because people are so fucked up and do things like that. And sad because this girls life is forever changed. And sad because she is just one of so many people who encounter situations like this. It made me think about the fact that most of the girls at camp had been raped, and a few of the counselors had scars from being stabbed, and I just can't imagine trying to go on with life without being afraid of everyone/everything. There was a part of me that wanted to get on a plane and fly home. Though I realize that I need to be cautious, I also need to remind myself that most people are good people and I can't leave this country walking around thinking that everybody is going to do something bad.
So, that was my night/morning!
I am in Port Elizabeth now, and I took my own room at the hostel. Definitely in need of a night of sleep. It is a quiet place in a mellow area...a welcome change.
I was supposed to travel with two others today who are probably wondering what on earth happened to me...how I disappeared from the hostel in a super remote town! They are booked at the same place as me, so I will hopefully see them when they arrive tonight.
Off to get some food for dinner, and then back to my hostel to relax with normal people and try to clear my head...
For the rest of my trip, I am in surf towns..staying in good places. So, please don't worry about me too much now that I have shared this story.
I promise that I don't wander around at night alone, even in the surf towns! (which is why i need to end this blog...cause it will be getting dark soon!)
love,
cori
Sunday, January 3, 2010
awesome day.
today was a great day.
when i arrived yesterday, i asked about the hike that they do here to an area called "Hole in the Wall." They said that they were not leading the hike today, but that i could do it myself. it is about 10k and should take about 3 hours. i asked person after person..."Can I really do it alone? Is it really safe? Is it well marked? Are you SURE?!?" Each person re-assured me that it was definitely doable on my own. I wasn't exactly sure what to take from this, but luckily, I didn't have to decide. I met a nice couple (Ralph and Marguerite) from Jo'burg who were also looking to do the hike...and similarly, were hesitant to do it alone. So, we decided to meet up this morning.
We started out and immediately couldn't find the start of the trail. Luckily, we found somebody to ask. Once again, this guy told us that the trail was well marked, blah blah blah. Well, we had a great day, but it might be a small miracle that we all made it out un-injured! We definitely missed the "trail" on numerous occasions. At the start, there are arrows painted on rocks. Now, this was nice, but...I did wonder if they were pointing us in the right direction or not, because they were small rocks...lightweight rocks...rocks that somebody could easily move to point in a different direction. I am pretty sure that they lead us the right way, but the problems came once there were no longer arrows. The local kids conveniently place themselves in these areas and ask to be your guide. The guy who I was with spoke Zulu and a bit of Xhosa, which was helpful. He asked a few of the kids if we were going the right way....but we didn't take a guide. At one point, we decided to just follow the coast since the tide was out. Well, this may not have been the best decision, as we ended up scaling up this mountain face. There were many rocks that looked like they were solid....but, they basically caused rockslides when you held them. Super sketchy. Alas, we made it up and out of that area, and then opted for a "guide." Two young boys lead us the rest of the way. Of course, as soon as we decided to let them lead us, the arrows started again! We were happy to have them guide us and to pay them a few bucks for their work...there are many kids just asking for "sweets" or money...so, these kids who are doing something are much more deserving. The hostel that I am staying at places a lot of emphasis on supporting the kids who guide or sing or make crafts, but not giving sweets or money to the "beggars" in order to avoid the travellers creating begging children in the community. After 3 hours, we made it! The hike was unbelievably beautiful. It was all along the coast...the ocean is so blue...the surrounding lands so green....sheep and cows all along the way. The Hole in the Wall is created by waves and it is basically a large hole in the rocks. As the wave shoots through, you can climb up on either side and jump off of the rocks into the ocean. Or, you can swim through and ride the wave back. It was really neat and really beautiful, and well worth the walk. We were all in agreement that we didn't want to walk back if we didn't have to, especially since by the time that we ate something and relaxed for a bit, it was getting late in the day. We met two great people who (THANKFULLY!) gave us a ride back.
After sweating all day and jumping in the ocean, my shower was exceptional. I just walked up the hill to see the sun set. The people from the hostel bring a bunch of drinks up there for "sundowners." I have seen some of the most amazing sunsets since being in Africa, though this was not one of them. The wind picked up...which hopefully means that tonight will be cooler than last night. It will be nice to not sleep in a pool of sweat and mosquitos...then again, if tonight is anything like last night, it will be hard to sleep anyway!
Tomorrow, I leave Coffee Bay. The trip back to the main town is about 2+ hours on the bumpy road, and then I catch a bus to Port Elizabeth. I think that is another 7+ hours (ugh!). I will be there in a "quieter" hostel for three nights, and then I go to Jeffrey's Bay for three nights. I am staying in a guesthouse there, which I am looking forward to! It is nice to have my own space every once in a while! After that, I head to Cape Town, which will be another long day on a bus. I will be there for two days, and then I head home! Crazy how time has gone by so quickly.
I have met a few nice people here who are also heading to Port Elizabeth tomorrow...so, I will have some familiar faces around at least for another day!
This hostel does a free "African" dinner every Sunday night, so I am going to go check that out now. Meanwhile, I continue to be bitten by mosquitos. ahhh!
when i arrived yesterday, i asked about the hike that they do here to an area called "Hole in the Wall." They said that they were not leading the hike today, but that i could do it myself. it is about 10k and should take about 3 hours. i asked person after person..."Can I really do it alone? Is it really safe? Is it well marked? Are you SURE?!?" Each person re-assured me that it was definitely doable on my own. I wasn't exactly sure what to take from this, but luckily, I didn't have to decide. I met a nice couple (Ralph and Marguerite) from Jo'burg who were also looking to do the hike...and similarly, were hesitant to do it alone. So, we decided to meet up this morning.
We started out and immediately couldn't find the start of the trail. Luckily, we found somebody to ask. Once again, this guy told us that the trail was well marked, blah blah blah. Well, we had a great day, but it might be a small miracle that we all made it out un-injured! We definitely missed the "trail" on numerous occasions. At the start, there are arrows painted on rocks. Now, this was nice, but...I did wonder if they were pointing us in the right direction or not, because they were small rocks...lightweight rocks...rocks that somebody could easily move to point in a different direction. I am pretty sure that they lead us the right way, but the problems came once there were no longer arrows. The local kids conveniently place themselves in these areas and ask to be your guide. The guy who I was with spoke Zulu and a bit of Xhosa, which was helpful. He asked a few of the kids if we were going the right way....but we didn't take a guide. At one point, we decided to just follow the coast since the tide was out. Well, this may not have been the best decision, as we ended up scaling up this mountain face. There were many rocks that looked like they were solid....but, they basically caused rockslides when you held them. Super sketchy. Alas, we made it up and out of that area, and then opted for a "guide." Two young boys lead us the rest of the way. Of course, as soon as we decided to let them lead us, the arrows started again! We were happy to have them guide us and to pay them a few bucks for their work...there are many kids just asking for "sweets" or money...so, these kids who are doing something are much more deserving. The hostel that I am staying at places a lot of emphasis on supporting the kids who guide or sing or make crafts, but not giving sweets or money to the "beggars" in order to avoid the travellers creating begging children in the community. After 3 hours, we made it! The hike was unbelievably beautiful. It was all along the coast...the ocean is so blue...the surrounding lands so green....sheep and cows all along the way. The Hole in the Wall is created by waves and it is basically a large hole in the rocks. As the wave shoots through, you can climb up on either side and jump off of the rocks into the ocean. Or, you can swim through and ride the wave back. It was really neat and really beautiful, and well worth the walk. We were all in agreement that we didn't want to walk back if we didn't have to, especially since by the time that we ate something and relaxed for a bit, it was getting late in the day. We met two great people who (THANKFULLY!) gave us a ride back.
After sweating all day and jumping in the ocean, my shower was exceptional. I just walked up the hill to see the sun set. The people from the hostel bring a bunch of drinks up there for "sundowners." I have seen some of the most amazing sunsets since being in Africa, though this was not one of them. The wind picked up...which hopefully means that tonight will be cooler than last night. It will be nice to not sleep in a pool of sweat and mosquitos...then again, if tonight is anything like last night, it will be hard to sleep anyway!
Tomorrow, I leave Coffee Bay. The trip back to the main town is about 2+ hours on the bumpy road, and then I catch a bus to Port Elizabeth. I think that is another 7+ hours (ugh!). I will be there in a "quieter" hostel for three nights, and then I go to Jeffrey's Bay for three nights. I am staying in a guesthouse there, which I am looking forward to! It is nice to have my own space every once in a while! After that, I head to Cape Town, which will be another long day on a bus. I will be there for two days, and then I head home! Crazy how time has gone by so quickly.
I have met a few nice people here who are also heading to Port Elizabeth tomorrow...so, I will have some familiar faces around at least for another day!
This hostel does a free "African" dinner every Sunday night, so I am going to go check that out now. Meanwhile, I continue to be bitten by mosquitos. ahhh!
through sheep, cows, donkeys and potholes....
i made it to Coffee Bay, and awesome little beach "town." Not sure you can call it a town, as it is really just a bunch of huts, but it is beautiful. met a few people yesterday and had dinner with them, which was great. met two others as well, and we are meeting up in a bit to do a hike. i am looking forward to this because 1) i feel all of my muscle turning to mush, and 2) it is a beautiful day and this is supposed to be a great hike. gonna go grab a bite to eat and then head out...will write more later! (i will have plenty of time, in my attempt to get on the time schedule of the crazy partiers who go to sleep at 4 in the morning! they are SOO loud!)
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